This was made for Hannah and Sundance, two medium-sized rabbits (Sundance is an over-sized dwarf). We call this model the Hotel Hare.

WE RECOMMEND BUILDING USING CABLE-TIES AND NOT THE CONNECTORS WHICH COME WITH THE GRIDS. This not only makes it easier to customize the cage and make hinged doors (with the ties), it's just easier overall.

As you can see, it has 3 levels and a mezzanine. The bottom level where the litter pan is, is 2 grids above the next level - too far for bunnies to hop, so there's a ramp included, which they enjoy running up and down.

They enjoy perching on the top level and looking out the bay window (curtains closed).

GETTING STARTED - THE PAN
For coroplast pans, which make nice catch-alls for hay and dust bunnies (those other bunnies you adopt when you adopt a bunny).

1. Put your bottom-level grids together first. Leave the long cable-tie 'tails' on at this point so you can tighten them later and then trim.

TIP: Arrange your grids to the "seams" are all either on the outside or the inside. The bunnies don't care so we recommend this inside. This is the side of the grid that the metal rods are soldered to and so they stick out a little bit on that size. Aesthetically, it looks nicer to have this on the inside.

2, Then carefully measure as accurately as you can the inside dimensions of the grids once you've 'knitted' them together using the cable-ties.

3. Now turn put your 8x4 piece of coroplast on the floor and approximate the center which is the best place to put your measured rectangle. Use a pen or grease pencil to mark the corners and a yardstick or T-square to draw out the rectangle (more photos coming soon for this part).

The excess coroplast all around it will be your pan sides. You can decide how deep you want each side to be. You will also have to fold the end flaps so they form a box bottom, just as you do when wrapping gifts.

4. Then you use box cutters or an exacto knife to 'score' or cut one side ONLY of the coroplast. DO NOT cut all the way through the coroplast! Score only through one layer of the plastic. This is corrugated plastic so it has two main layers on each side with corrugated (i.e,. ridged or fluted) plastic in between. Try not to cut the fluted plastic either JUST the one layer on ONE side of the plastic

5. Then you can drill little holes in the plastic and cable tie the flaps so they stay up or use clear packaging tape ON THE OUTSIDE of the pan to keep the flaps up. The bunny won't be able to get to the tape because it will be between the grids and the pan.

You should have a total of 8 lines to score, the 4 sides of the rectangle and two for each end flap.

NOTE FOR MODELS LIKE THIS - it is not necessary to put a layer of grids for a bottom, the pan bottom is sufficient IF you've measure carefully enough that the pan fits snugly inside your grids like this pan does here.

PUT TOGETHER THE REST OF THE LEVELS.

SIDE DETAIL

DOOR The door on this model is 3 grids high and kept closed with two clips. Get a good clip at the hardware store so your bunny is secure in the cage! Use cable ties to make the door hinges.

FOR THE SHELF LINING

You can use more coroplast with something on top of that or the bunny will have no traction.

Indoor/outdoor carpeting is suitable, it will get chewed regularly and fur will stick to it.

Grass mats are nice, ONLY PURCHASE FROM places selling these for pet use. DO NOT GET from Pier 1 where they are coated with deadly chemicals!!!

BERBER carpeting is very nice if you can find it. It is also washable and this type of carpeting rabbits do not like to chew.

PLYWOOD IS NOT A GOOD IDEA!!! It is held together by toxic glues and the bunnies will chew on this. USE UNTREATED wood if you do use wood.

HERE'S THE FINISHED HABITAT AGAIN.

ANY QUESTIONS? ! We'll be happy to help and save you the time of having to redo stuff.